The seafront restaurants with the best view are rarely the ones locals eat at most — those are a street or two back, in the pedestrian lanes behind the promenade, where rent is lower and the kitchens answer to regulars instead of passersby.
Start early if you want fish: the morning catch sells out at the small market near the harbour well before noon, and the best tavernas cook to whatever came in that day rather than a fixed menu.
Ouzeries — the small, mezze-driven bars built around ouzo and conversation — are where the evening really happens. Order a few small plates at a time rather than a full meal upfront; it's the local rhythm, and it means you never stop eating.
For something sweet, the city has a strong tradition of Thracian pastries with honey and walnut, distinct from the syrupy versions found further south — worth seeking out over the more tourist-facing bakeries near the lighthouse.
